Robin Hood’s Bay to Ravenscar 21.7.24

Seven years ago (and they went quickly) we set out to walk from Scarborough to Robin Hood’s Bay but only made it to Ravenscar. So this short walk is just to join a couple of dots.

The bus from Scarborough to Robin Hoods Bay takes forever but as it only costs £2 I mustn’t grumble. After stocking up on sandwiches at the local Post Office I start the steep walk down to the bay – the cobbles on the footpath are difficult to walk on so I move out into the road.

Half way down I have to jump back on the pavement to let two horse and carts pass at a spanking pace – too fast for a video. Google tells me these may be carts used by the gypsy and traveller communities for racing.

At the hotel, where the road goes no further, there is really only one way to go, although there are no signs.

I walk up the steps beside the Visitor Centre, along a pebbled alley, until I come to the sign I need – the Cleveland Way.

Which then opens up to the seafront where people are sitting in deckchairs enjoying the view – groups of children are scrabbling about in the rock pools looking for crabs.

I am so taken with the view myself that I miss the beginning of the path which leads up to the top of the cliffs. Feeling a little foolish I walk past the same people, find the path and start climbing up the wooden steps.

From the top I look back at the beautiful view of the village nestled into the cliff………….

After about a mile the path leads into a patch of woodland, at a spot with the most wonderful name.

The path is steep in places and so well used that the roots of surrounding trees are left exposed and snake across the path at irregular intervals. I remember my delight in seeing tree roots cast in bronze on paths at the Yorkshire Sculpture Park, where the sculptor had named them “speed breakers”. Here I would call them “trip hazards” but that’s an age thing……

https://ysp.org.uk/art-outdoors/speed-breakers

At the bottom of the valley is a youth hostel – what a wonderful place to stay – I am myself full of breakfast so I don’t linger.

The view out to sea………….

Moving on I am a little dismayed to find the footpath closed – yes you’ve guessed it, subsidence. There is however guidance as to how to continue, which involves walking up a tarmac road to a carpark, where I turn left through a field gate and carry on down through another small patch of trees, over a footbridge and back to the path.

Shortly after a signpost goes me a choice of paths – I opt for the one which passes through the Alum Works.

The path dips down to a bog with a boardwalk to carry you over and at the base of the trees some strange plants have monopolised the undergrowth. They look like huge bottlebrushes or something out of Star Wars but they are apparently called Mare’s Tail or Equisetum.

Five minutes later I come to a sign which bids me welcome to the Alum works. Alum is a chemical compound used for centuries in the textile industry, as a binder in the dyeing process. It can also be used in medicines and glass making. Until 1453 much of the alum used across Europe came from the Middle East but after the fall of Constantinople the closely guarded secrets of alum making were passed on to the Pope, who quickly monopolised the industry. However, when Henry VIII fell out with the Pope he was forced to try and establish a local. reliable and cheaper source of alum, namely the coast and hills of North Yorkshire.

Two hundred tons of urine! How on earth did they collect it?And how did they keep it fresh? Think I’ll stop now…..

As this is a short walk I have plenty of time to wander round the ruins of the site, reading information boards for facts I’ll forget next week……although a few things do stick..

From here the path dips down and up through a small patch of woodland – white foxgloves – don’t see these very often…

Until I reach the top of an incline for a view over the bay……………….

I finish the walk outside the entrance to the Raven Hall Hotel where Damian and I crawled in all those years ago in search of a beer. I decide not to repeat the experience, it’s too early in the day, so I choose the National Trust cafe nearby for a cup of tea and a piece of cake.

It’s been a lovely walk.

Distance: 5 miles

7 thoughts on “Robin Hood’s Bay to Ravenscar 21.7.24

  1. I’ve only taken the bus away from RHB to Scarborough, twice after completing the Coast to Coast. It’s a lovely little place and I’ve happy memories of the Bay Hotel

  2. I later read that the chemical process of alum production needed ammonia. Apparently urine from poor areas of the country was prioritised as it was not tainted with so much alcohol (they couldn’t afford it). And yes, raft of ducks – I didn’t know either……..Thanks for reading xx

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