Another windy day dawns on the Llyn Peninsula, our last day in fact, before we drive back to London. It will also be a shortish walk as there is no public transport from here on and the taxis cost a fortune. This means that we will be following the coast for a while and then turning inland to make it a circular walk. Anyway, it’s a lovely morning as we walk through the village and down to the beach.
At this point Damian and have a quick disagreement on the best way to go and we part company as I don’t like the look of the steep steps from the beach up onto the cliff. So I turn off right up a tarmac lane, turn left on to the cliff path and negotiate a few muddy puddles before realising that the path is taking me down to the beach and up the very same steep steps. Fortunately I cannot see a trace of triumph in Damian’s face. I am also quite glad I had chosen this route because at the top of the tarmac lane I spy some graffiti in Welsh that I plan to investigate.
Talking to staff at the hotel later on I discover that these two words can be found at numerous sites throughout Wales but that they originated in the valleys of South Wales. A Wiki search reveals that the slogan appeared in the early 60’s on the site of a ruined cottage and was painted by Meic Stephens, a Welsh writer, in response to the flooding of the Tryweryn valley by the Liverpool City Council. The move was made without consulting the Welsh authorities. Since then it has been associated with Welsh nationalism and in particular Plaid Cymru (the militant group responsible for burning English owned holiday cottages in Wales).
Here is the link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cofiwch_Dryweryn
History lesson over – we are now looking down on Aberdaron before continuing along the cliff path.
Our first landmark is Porth Simdde followed by Porth Meudwy, Porth Cloch and Porth Pistyll – all small inlets along the way. At the first of these we look down on two substantial boats pulled up onto the sand. There is a little stone cottage, a tractor and piles of lobster pots but no-one around.
We carry on along the stony path until we reach Pen y Cil, the very tip of the peninsula – hurray!
Just off the coast is the island of Carreg Ddu (Black Stone) and here’s Damian, waiting for me to catch up.
By now the landscape has opened up into an wide open area called Mynedd y Gwyddel and this is where we will join the road to take us back to Aberdaron. The sweep of land is wild and beautiful – there is a weighted silence in the air which cuts through the wind somehow. In the distance there are people walking………
After wandering around in this wilderness we eventually find a concrete path and some stone steps, remains of some military installation, to take us up to the spot where we can join the road. Apparently, this is where people come star gazing as there is very little interference from artificial light.
We start walking down the road – Damian gets involved in talking to the animals again.
A couple of miles later we are back in the village…………………..
Distance: 4 miles (plus two miles road walking)