The last time we were here was back in July when we were struggling with the heat. This time the sky is grey and overcast with a promise of rain. I am pleased to see a man and his dog collecting litter from the beach.

I am also grateful that I am lucky enough not to have to camp out in this weather.

From our guesthouse overlooking the promenade we turn right and walk towards the first climb up the cliff.

Fortunately, as far as I can see, the easiest way up is to take the cliff railway which trundles up the very steep slope to the top of Constitution Hill. Opened in 1896 the railway used a water balance system (look it up) but was electrified in 1921. At the top is a park, a cafe, a gift shop and the largest Camera Obscura in the world, which is closed.

The photo below is not mine but by the time we get to the top it is tipping down and very difficult to see anything at all.

After that bit of excitement we struggle into our waterproofs and heads down set off along what we assume is the coast path. After 15 minutes I take a look at the map and realise that we have missed the turn so back we go.

Up on the cliff now the path follows the coast, up and down, quite steeply in places – I can feel I haven’t done any serious walking for a few months. In Clarach Bay we walk past acres of caravans – great for those who enjoy having a place by the coast but still a bit of scar on the landscape.

The landscape around us now is wild and remote and the only building we see on our walk is a large white house overlooking Wallog Beach. From the beach a long pebbly groyne reaches out into the sea which is apparently completely natural and extends for miles. In the grounds are remains of a disused lime kiln. Lime was shipped to the beach to be treated and then spread over the fields of the Wallog Estate.

Next to the house is a pretty waterfall…….

We are now beginning to see Borth in the distance but we have one more very steep hill to climb. At the top is a war memorial and a great view of Borth, although somewhat obscured by the greyness of the day.

Walking along the high street we come across something I had not expected to see – along with the churches renovated as homes, the Midlands accents and the half decent pubs, this “boutique cinema” is yet another sign of the gentrification of towns and villages in this area.

Some of the incomers seem to have got a little carried away with their home improvements.

We find the railway station and sit and wait for our train back to Aberystwyth. The weather has not been as bad as we expected but I am looking forward to my dinner and bed.

Distance: 7 miles