I will not bore you with the logistics off this walk so let’s just say it was VERY complicated due to the fact that the main road bridge into Barmouth was closed, and we were not sure whether the ferry was running. So……………this involved a bit of research which ended with us driving to Fairbourne on the one side of Barmouth harbour, parking the car, and taking the ferry over to Barmouth and back. This also involved some very good seafood chowder and an utter drenching. But it was all worth it and the ferryman was a chatty fellow that had been sailing back and forth over this narrow stretch of water for 30 years – so he was not going to be put off by a bit of rain.
It is also possible to take the single gauge railway from Fairbourne village out to the ferry but we found out too late…….others were luckier.
So that was yesterday – today we drive the car to the ferry point at Fairbourne, leave it in the carpark and turn our backs on Barmouth to walk south to Llwyngwril. Fairbourne itself is a grim desolate place, sitting on featureless marshland but it is surrounded by the foothills of Snowdonia National Park. A wiki tells me that the village has been identified as unsustainable to defend, given the predicted rise in sea levels. The best estimate at present is that the area will be abandoned between 2052 and 2062.
Fighting the rain Damian and I walk along the concrete path back into the village until we reach the seafront. Time for a wet selfie…..
Along the entire length of the front is a row of stone plinths, locally known as dragons teeth, which during the Second World War were intended to trap any German tanks that might roll up onto the beach.
At the end of the beach stands the cheery Welsh Coast path sign directing us left, under a railway bridge and up onto the main road.
There is only a short stretch of road before we are directed up right into a patch of woodland.
This part of the walk is lovely, despite the rain. Autumn leaves soften the path as we walk across streams in full spate, tip toeing across wobbly stepping stones.
After a while the landscape flattens out into bare rain soaked country – we are back to the dry stone walls.
We pass a few ancient standing stones and cairns and stop for a while to look back over Barmouth Bay.
Slowly we descend the track which then morphs into a narrow tarmac road to take us down into Llwyngwrill and the churchyard where we set off for Aberdovey 2 days ago.
Thanks to a friendly taxi driver we are reunited with our car and start the journey up the estuary to Barmouth. As the main bridge is closed we take the opportunity to drive across the weathered boards of the toll bridge.
And twenty minutes later we are checked into our very quirky hotel, full of strange artefacts, and regulars who look like they’ve been there since it was built.
If you are ever in Barmouth, stay here at The Royal – it’s cheap, comfortable and run by very down to earth staff – food is a bit dodgy though.
Distance: 8 miles