Aberdaron to Mynydd y Gwyddel 12.3.22

Another windy day dawns on the Llyn Peninsula, our last day in fact, before we drive back to London. It will also be a shortish walk as there is no public transport from here on and the taxis cost a fortune. This means that we will be following the coast for a while and then turning inland to make it a circular walk. Anyway, it’s a lovely morning as we walk through the village and down to the beach.

At this point Damian and have a quick disagreement on the best way to go and we part company as I don’t like the look of the steep steps from the beach up onto the cliff. So I turn off right up a tarmac lane, turn left on to the cliff path and negotiate a few muddy puddles before realising that the path is taking me down to the beach and up the very same steep steps. Fortunately I cannot see a trace of triumph in Damian’s face. I am also quite glad I had chosen this route because at the top of the tarmac lane I spy some graffiti in Welsh that I plan to investigate.

Talking to staff at the hotel later on I discover that these two words can be found at numerous sites throughout Wales but that they originated in the valleys of South Wales. A Wiki search reveals that the slogan appeared in the early 60’s on the site of a ruined cottage and was painted by Meic Stephens, a Welsh writer, in response to the flooding of the Tryweryn valley by the Liverpool City Council. The move was made without consulting the Welsh authorities. Since then it has been associated with Welsh nationalism and in particular Plaid Cymru (the militant group responsible for burning English owned holiday cottages in Wales).

Here is the link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cofiwch_Dryweryn

History lesson over – we are now looking down on Aberdaron before continuing along the cliff path.

Our first landmark is Porth Simdde followed by Porth Meudwy, Porth Cloch and Porth Pistyll – all small inlets along the way. At the first of these we look down on two substantial boats pulled up onto the sand. There is a little stone cottage, a tractor and piles of lobster pots but no-one around.

We carry on along the stony path until we reach Pen y Cil, the very tip of the peninsula – hurray!

Just off the coast is the island of Carreg Ddu (Black Stone) and here’s Damian, waiting for me to catch up.

A drop……………………………

By now the landscape has opened up into an wide open area called Mynedd y Gwyddel and this is where we will join the road to take us back to Aberdaron. The sweep of land is wild and beautiful – there is a weighted silence in the air which cuts through the wind somehow. In the distance there are people walking………

After wandering around in this wilderness we eventually find a concrete path and some stone steps, remains of some military installation, to take us up to the spot where we can join the road. Apparently, this is where people come star gazing as there is very little interference from artificial light.

We start walking down the road – Damian gets involved in talking to the animals again.

A couple of miles later we are back in the village…………………..

Distance: 4 miles (plus two miles road walking)

9 thoughts on “Aberdaron to Mynydd y Gwyddel 12.3.22

  1. I have enjoyed your latest walks. Plenty of natural beauty and its likely fair to say that this is extenuated when the sun shines. Loved the gothic house.
    I took a memory photo of your fantastic expression (with the video ending on exactly the right moment), when Damian Doolittle accurately described the panorama, featuring the Black Stone.
    His words to humans starkly contrasting with those to animals – “Here sheepy sheep”?!
    Lovely x

  2. Thanks for reading Andy – yes Damian’s Dr. Doolittle moments are charming although one can get a little exasperated hanging around waiting for him to focus on the road ahead! xx

    • Thank you – I am always SO pleased when I know people actually read these posts – see you in a month (and a bit). Still reading the WILDING book by the way xx

  3. Great walk reports as always. From my side they do help to relive the moments…..good and bad. Couple of little observations, firstly I have, over the years, learnt to disguise the little look of triumph so effectively that it’s simply not doing its job properly, i’ll work on it. Secondly, no matter how much effort you put into sheep, you get very little in return. But I do believe, deep in my heart, that one of these days a sheep is going to scuttle over enthusiastically for an ear rub or back scratch?
    These last few walks have been very isolated and have left us far from the madding crowd, which is great, but makes it very difficult to get back to pick our car up. No local busses and highly exploitative, mostly English, taxi drivers are the order of the day.
    Must give a big shout out to a lovely couple we met who offered to drive us back to our car on one occasion, and another shout to Michelle the owner of a fab Airbnb we stayed in who after providing us with a top Welsh breakfast, then drove us to the start of our walk. Some people just go above and beyond. It did of course save us loads of money which we were able to plough straight back into the local economy, in the form of a second pint most nights…..
    When are we going walking again?

  4. Yes a beautiful day for a walk. Thanks for the history lesson. Lovely use of language when describing the scenary. (The weighted silence). Enjoyed the videosxx

  5. I enjoyed the Llyn peninsula very much and it looks like you had wonderful weather for it. I remember the transport links being a bit tricky there too.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s