We have some unexpected visitors in our guesthouse this morning…………….and I may need help identifying them.

Or resort to the Internet……..long tail like the swallow? But I couldn’t get the patch of red under its beak.

This is where they were heading anyway……………

After that bit of excitement we head for Low Newton by the Sea, leaving the car in the nearby carpark.

It’s only a short walk down to the beach – people are already setting up for a day in the sunshine.

Although the coast path runs above the beach we decide to walk on the sand, until we have to move off. Up ahead the map shows a rocky headland called Greymare Rock, which will block our progress. Before this, there is also a band of water called Embleton Burn which runs through the dunes onto the beach further up and can be tricky at high tide.

Moving off the beach up into the dunes, we walk past a collection of substantial beach huts nestled in the ferns – they look well looked after.

..We decide to continue on the path – easier walking than the sand.

And anyway, up ahead, the Embleton Burn is filling up with the incoming tide. On the far side of the bay the silhouette of the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle move slowly into focus.

And then we’re here, up a rocky path and round to the entrance.

The castle was established in 1313 by the Earl of Lancaster, one of the most powerful opponents of King Edward II, – and this is what it looked like then.

The information board says it much better than I can.

It seems to me that much of the Northumberland nobility was busy trying to prove that they were more important than the King.

Anyway, we move on down the hill and back to the coast path.

Our next port of call is the charming village of Craster, famous for its kippers – my mother loved kippers and so do I. Stone cottages and terraced gardens surround a small harbour, fishing boats pulled up on the shingle.

…………………..and this is the place. I guess we could have bought a couple but not ideal in a rucksack on a hot day.

A single house, built with golden sandstone bricks, stands in splendid isolation – with its own beach.

By the time we reach this information sign on the edge of Howick Estate the heat is becoming unbearable and I find myself looking for a spot where we can swim.

We find it – a lovely stretch of sand called Sugar Sands. We have no towels or dry underwear but needs must……………..the water is surprisingly cold..

After a short dry off in the sun we set off to finish the last mile to Boulmer. An Uber gets us back to the car, but as the night is still young we walk down the half mile to the highly recommended local pub The Ship Inn, where we are invited to sample their own lager – quite probably the best I’ve ever tasted!

………………..and Craster kippers for breakfast 😋

Distance: 9 miles