The foot ferry to Harwich fights its way across the choppy water, the dark cranes of Felixstowe silhouetted against the grey sky. Narrow alleys lead to the deserted station of Harwich Town and a convoluted journey to Kirby. On the tarmac to Walton on the Naze and its pier snaking out to sea.Miles and miles of beach huts through Frinton, easy sand walking at low tide, groups of children screaming at crabs and then the long concrete sea wall to Clacton.

Astonished I catch sight of something moving towards me up ahead – the toy train duts its horn to greet me.

Distance: 8 miles