Port Isaac to Trebarwith Strand 14.9.17

Another day of strong winds, roaring in the ears, trying to keep my balance – everyone’s complaining – keeps the flags flying though…………

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I walk up the steep coast road incline out of Port Isaac and down into Port Gaverne. Across the bay is a small inlet with a bridge connecting two sections of cliff but the path is closed.

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From the top of the cliffs there is a lovely view of my walk today………

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………and as I wobble along the path, fighting the wind I am very glad to have these stone slabs protecting me from the precipitous drops on the other side.

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At the top of the next drop I pass a couple huddling into the bank – the girl looks very scared.

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…..and I myself am a little apprehensive about the wind, the narrow path and its proximity to the edge.

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……………and then it starts to rain………………..heavily. I tuck all my precious electronics away and take stock. And what I come up with is RETREAT – this is not an endurance test and I don’t want to die.

So, at the very next opportunity I turn off on a footpath that leads me over fields to the road running parallel to the coast. Here, the wind is not as bad and there is very little traffic. I walk for a couple of miles, the rain stops and the sun comes out – I decide to go back to the coast path.

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This of course is not without its challenges – a field full of frisky bullocks sets my heart racing but they’re not blocking the path and as advised, I make no eye contact.

The footpath takes me through the ruined farm buildings of Dannonchapel, first recorded in the Doomsday Survey of 1086 as housing 1 villager and 4 slaves.

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Climbing up to Crookmoyle Rock I look down into the deep gorge beyond and take it very slowly.

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At the bottom is a lovely wooden bridge to take me over the stream…….

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…………..and another one to take me across the ravine at the top …………..

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In the distance is Gull Rock which marks my destination……………

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…………..and then I find this – too late in the year for cuckoo spit but I am about to find out.

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Just before the next steep descent I look down on a little cove of foam, whirling up from the rocks and settling on the path ahead. I realise this is spume, which is when the waves are whipped into foam or froth by a strong wind. I have only seen it once before and that was many years ago when Damian and I tried to walk a section of the Pembroke Way in a 30mph wind.

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I walk down this winding narrow path to the bottom of the valley and give myself a rest and a banana by the side of this pretty little stone bridge.

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And from here on the walk is easy, along the top of the cliffs, although there is one last steep drop down into Trebarwith Strand.

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The beach here is a large area of layered flat stones with a stream running through them. There are quite a few people milling about staring out to sea or messing about by the stream – Gull Rock stands to attention out to sea. The village amenities are one fairly big hotel, public toilets and a cafe. I am also surprised to see two surf shops but the shop assistant tells me that when the tide is out there is a wide, long sandy beach and plenty of opportunities for surfing.

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I sit on one of the large stones and finish off my lunch thinking about how I’m going to get out of here – there is no telephone signal and no bus service. In the cafe I ask the owners if they would call a taxi, which they do, but I will have to wait an hour – it is school run time of day and there are none available. Ah well………

Later, from talking to other walkers I discover that the walk I did today is considered the most dangerous section of the South West Coast Path and is labelled “severe” – even without the wind!

Distance: 7 looooong miles

 

 

2 thoughts on “Port Isaac to Trebarwith Strand 14.9.17

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