Now a down-at-heel suburb of Redcar, the houses in Dormanstown were originally built in 1920, to house hundreds of workers employed by the Dorman Long Iron and Steel works – the company responsible for the building of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. No vestiges of this past glory can be seen as we set off in the grey mist towards the A1085.
Who would have thought that the highlight of this walk would be the promenade at Redcar. We park the car at Zetland Park which is roughly where we finished last time and start walking along the seafront. Revamped in 2013 at a cost of £30 million pounds the promenade is full of surprises.
We start the walk from this Bansky looky likey piece of art – not quite sure what it means…a vision of life on earth when we have polluted ourselves out of existence? Life on a distant planet?
We phone an Uber to take us to Staithes as there is no direct bus. The driver is from Irak and we get to hear a little of his story. Fleeing from the chaos in his country with his family, he managed a string of temporary jobs and eventually embarked on a four year Computer Science course at Hull University. After finishing a Masters, he now hopes to start a PhD. His wife has just recently completed her medical training and is now a qualified GP. Their two children are also planning to study Digital Learning and AI next year. It warms the cockles to meet such a resourceful family, taking refuge in the UK and working so hard to contribute to our society. Strangely enough his English is not great……………but then I am an English teacher and maybe a bit critical..
Reunited with our walking boots, that our lovely Bnb lady had kept safe for us, we drive off to Saltburn (nothing to do with the film) to settle in to our holiday flat overlooking the bay. The sky threatens rain and at this time of the year the days are very short, but we still decide to cover some ground by walking four miles or so to Redcar.
It is again the Patrington Pumping Station that calls the shots, forcing us inland towards the end of the walk, but as it turns out the deviation is more than acceptable.
A severe storm in Withernsea last night does not show any signs of abating, although this morning there’s not quite as much rain. Our Bnb is the last house on the promenade, with nothing in front of it to stop the gale force wind pounding the leaky front windows – needless to say we didn’t get a lot of sleep. Bracing ourselves for the short walk over to the cliff top, our minds are quickly made up as to which way to go – there is no footpath along the cliff edge and even if there was, I would not be taking any chances with such a ferocious headwind.
Since we last tried to get down the cliffs at Aldbrough, I have been quite apprehensive about coming back here, so despite Damian’s quiet protests I have made an executive decision. For better or worse we are going to walk along the top of the cliffs and if we have to climb over drains or trespass on farmland, so be it.
Our taxi drops us near the Coastguard Cottages at Stone Creek – last time we were here we turned right, this time it’s left. In front of us are a few small boats, beached on the muddy banks of the creek – I notice a car.
Hunting around for the path I notice a grizzled middle aged man in a boiler suit loping towards us. I shout “Excuse me, is this the footpath?” pointing to a narrow gap in the bushes. “The footparth” he says with a twinkle in his eye, “Is that the footparth you’re looking for Madam?” It takes me a couple of seconds before I realise he’s mocking my southern accent – northerners would of course pronounce “path” with the same vowel sound as in “apple” I burst out laughing and he grins, showing us exactly how few teeth he has left. He introduces himself as the Harbourmaster and we stop for a chat.
Moving on we pass a sign informing us that this is a permissive path through the rural parish of Sunk Island. Originally a sandbank in the middle of the Humber Estuary, the island was gradually built up by tidal deposits and became permanently above water in the late 16th century. It is now part of the mainland and is well known for its fertile soil.
Damian takes a minute to check his phone………….
The path widens – marshes on the right, agriculture on the left.
Tufts of marsh grasses sit serenely in the still water……………
And then……what are these? Too large to be cow vertebrae………and how did they get here in the middle of the path? A mystery.
Further up the path stands what can only be called an obelisk, complete with its stainless steel plaques, marking the position of the Greenwich Meridian.
Longitude zero – good place to stop and have a rest.
A mile or so up the path, a couple of students from Hull University are measuring the carbon capture capacity of the marsh – or at least I think that’s what he said.
Soon we will have to turn inland as there is no easy way of getting across Patrington Channel.
The pumping station is armed to the teeth with spikes and tall gates and even if we were prepared for a mild impaling, the bog on the other side of it looks impassable. OK ok – we’ll turn round.
Back we go with the drain on our right, down a farm track heading up to a minor road which will take us to our destination. Off to the left a couple of diggers are performing circus tricks – it looks like they are laying the foundations of another embankment.
Another mile and we are approaching Patrington Haven – home to a substantial holiday park where we tried to find a pint and some food last night. Unfortunately the restaurant had burned down some months ago, so all hospitality moved into a marquee AND it was bingo night – didn’t really fancy it.
In the middle of the village stands a strange little building with its own war memorial. Built as a chapel for the Primitive Methodists in 1852, it has obviously been through a few facelifts in its time with rather unhappy results. Primitive Methodists were formed in 1811 as an offshoot of the main Wesleyan Methodist Church. They owe their Evangelical nature to the American movement of the same name, encouraging boisterous camp meetings and full equal status for men and women. The Primitive Methodists were the first to allow the ordination of women to full time ministry.
From here it is just a a short hop to Patrington where we are staying tonight.
The bus stop in Hornsea is right opposite the museum – I would have liked to have had a look inside but we need to get this last walk done before driving back to London tomorrow. We haven’t even made time to have a look at Hornsea Mere, which lies to the west of the town and is the largest freshwater lake in Yorkshire. Another time perhaps……