Dark rain clouds are gathering over the harbour at Seaham – could this be the day the rain catches up with us?

Dark rain clouds are gathering over the harbour at Seaham – could this be the day the rain catches up with us?

The rather clumsily named Nose’s Point is a small promontory east of Dawdon, where up until 1991 all coal waste from the local colliery was unceremoniously tipped over the cliffs on to the beaches below. It is said that this practice created an expanse of slag three miles out to sea. Fortunately, the site has now been reclaimed – wildflower meadows have been restored, ponds have been created for wildlife and marine life has returned to the area in abundance. We start walking from the carpark – walking into the sun and with a tail wind – all good.

We phone and ask if we can leave the car in the caravan park, as it’s very low season and the place is a ghost town – the woman on the other end of the phone almost gleefully says no. So it’s an Uber that drops us just inside the entrance, and we spend a bit of time lurking around, looking in a few caravan windows and trying to find the path that will lead us down to the coast.

Now a down-at-heel suburb of Redcar, the houses in Dormanstown were originally built in 1920, to house hundreds of workers employed by the Dorman Long Iron and Steel works – the company responsible for the building of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. No vestiges of this past glory can be seen as we set off in the grey mist towards the A1085.

Not such a lovely day as yesterday but not raining – a good start. Finding ourselves at Arnside railway station, we cross the railway bridge and head off down a permissive path which runs northwards, parallel to the road. The route around the estuary will be quite complicated today, particularly because we will be trying to avoid waterlogged fields and flooded footpaths.
Continue readingAfter a hearty breakfast with my sister and her husband, we set off from West Lancashire, hoping to arrive in Silverdale in time for a five mile walk before sunset. The village stands on Morecambe Bay near the border with Cumbria and consists of a collection of pretty grey stone buildings, a parish church, a hotel and post office. Twenty of the buildings are listed and one former resident of note was the comedian Victoria Wood.
Continue readingReunited with our walking boots, that our lovely Bnb lady had kept safe for us, we drive off to Saltburn (nothing to do with the film) to settle in to our holiday flat overlooking the bay. The sky threatens rain and at this time of the year the days are very short, but we still decide to cover some ground by walking four miles or so to Redcar.
Continue readingIt is again the Patrington Pumping Station that calls the shots, forcing us inland towards the end of the walk, but as it turns out the deviation is more than acceptable.
Continue readingA severe storm in Withernsea last night does not show any signs of abating, although this morning there’s not quite as much rain. Our Bnb is the last house on the promenade, with nothing in front of it to stop the gale force wind pounding the leaky front windows – needless to say we didn’t get a lot of sleep. Bracing ourselves for the short walk over to the cliff top, our minds are quickly made up as to which way to go – there is no footpath along the cliff edge and even if there was, I would not be taking any chances with such a ferocious headwind.
Continue readingOur taxi drops us near the Coastguard Cottages at Stone Creek – last time we were here we turned right, this time it’s left. In front of us are a few small boats, beached on the muddy banks of the creek – I notice a car.

Hunting around for the path I notice a grizzled middle aged man in a boiler suit loping towards us. I shout “Excuse me, is this the footpath?” pointing to a narrow gap in the bushes. “The footparth” he says with a twinkle in his eye, “Is that the footparth you’re looking for Madam?” It takes me a couple of seconds before I realise he’s mocking my southern accent – northerners would of course pronounce “path” with the same vowel sound as in “apple” I burst out laughing and he grins, showing us exactly how few teeth he has left. He introduces himself as the Harbourmaster and we stop for a chat.
Moving on we pass a sign informing us that this is a permissive path through the rural parish of Sunk Island. Originally a sandbank in the middle of the Humber Estuary, the island was gradually built up by tidal deposits and became permanently above water in the late 16th century. It is now part of the mainland and is well known for its fertile soil.

Damian takes a minute to check his phone………….

The path widens – marshes on the right, agriculture on the left.

Tufts of marsh grasses sit serenely in the still water……………

And then……what are these? Too large to be cow vertebrae………and how did they get here in the middle of the path? A mystery.



Further up the path stands what can only be called an obelisk, complete with its stainless steel plaques, marking the position of the Greenwich Meridian.

Longitude zero – good place to stop and have a rest.
A mile or so up the path, a couple of students from Hull University are measuring the carbon capture capacity of the marsh – or at least I think that’s what he said.

Soon we will have to turn inland as there is no easy way of getting across Patrington Channel.
The pumping station is armed to the teeth with spikes and tall gates and even if we were prepared for a mild impaling, the bog on the other side of it looks impassable. OK ok – we’ll turn round.


Back we go with the drain on our right, down a farm track heading up to a minor road which will take us to our destination. Off to the left a couple of diggers are performing circus tricks – it looks like they are laying the foundations of another embankment.
Another mile and we are approaching Patrington Haven – home to a substantial holiday park where we tried to find a pint and some food last night. Unfortunately the restaurant had burned down some months ago, so all hospitality moved into a marquee AND it was bingo night – didn’t really fancy it.
In the middle of the village stands a strange little building with its own war memorial. Built as a chapel for the Primitive Methodists in 1852, it has obviously been through a few facelifts in its time with rather unhappy results. Primitive Methodists were formed in 1811 as an offshoot of the main Wesleyan Methodist Church. They owe their Evangelical nature to the American movement of the same name, encouraging boisterous camp meetings and full equal status for men and women. The Primitive Methodists were the first to allow the ordination of women to full time ministry.

From here it is just a a short hop to Patrington where we are staying tonight.
Distance: 10 miles